Diagrams images 4 3 liter engine coolant diagram also with caliber furthermore rrd page as well as jbrew albums diagrams picture together with hyundai elantra moreover cc moreover cam including b e additionally as well as b f bf as well as a ff c ce bb a f additionally cc along with chrysler timing belt 4 3 Liter Engine Coolant Diagram Comments and Responses on Wiring diagrams, engine problems, fuse box, electrical diagram, transmission diagram, radiator diagram, exhaust system, suspension diagram. I removed the pair of screws and moved it out of my way. And, as you disassemble the intake, remember that the exhaust and intake push rods are a different size. The heat exchanger acts as a radiator does in an automobile, however rather than air the raw water is used for cooling the circulating water. I pressed the new valve cover gasket into place. Dex-Cool has also been shown to cause a sludge buildup that can plug up the radiator, heater core and cooling passageways inside the engine. The raw water will be used with your Engine Oil and Power Steering Coolers as they will not be part of the closed circulating system.
Why Did This Leak Happen? The Half System Engine Block Only The half closed cooling system is designed to circulate cooling water through the block only. Maybe we'll get better mileage after this. Then I removed the cruise control cable by curling the wire and sliding the cable end sideways out of the hole in the metal bracket arrow. I recommend looking up the tightening sequence in a Chilton or Haynes book, or a dealer service manual. We carry a couple stock replacement expansion tanks. I did have a minor leak where one of the heater hoses connects to the firewall, but that stopped after a couple of days.
I removed the bolts with a 13mm socket, long extension and ratchet. . The valve cover gasket has a ridge on the top side which fits into a groove in the valve cover. As the engines water coolant gets hot it will expand, increasing in volume. Your email address will not be published. You will probably see compression loss on one or more cylinders.
I'm guessing that this device is the evaportive emissions purge solenoid that is mentioned in the Chilton's book. The left side was ready to start leaking too. A Peculiar Problem: After I put the car back together and changed the oil, I noticed two problems. These screws can be dropped easily. We just links any topics about 4 3 Vortec Engine Cooling System to many other sites out there. I wanted to be sure the hose and cable routing was going to work.
There was very little room to maneuver at the back of the engine, and I did not expect this to be easy. I found during an oil change that there is coolant in my oil, I had suspicions of this because of having to add coolant more than I should of had to. The engine is an enlarged version of the 2. The oxygen sensor sees the lean condition and forces the computer to add fuel. I pulled this outward with a screwdriver. It uses raw lake or ocean water brought in from the raw water pump to act as coolant for the engines circulating water. I found this bad spot in the intake manifold gasket at the front right.
Then I lifted off the valve cover. Label the spark plug wires. I turned the intake manifold over and cleaned the mating surfaces on the underside. I think you need a good independent mechanic to check this out for you. Be careful when prying on fuel lines. The larger tube is the fuel supply line, and the smaller tube is the fuel return line that goes back to the tank.
The orange line is a rubber gasket that sits in a deep groove in the manifold. See below for a diagram of the half system operation: Typical Plumbing for a Half System The Full System Engine Block and Exhaust Manifolds The full closed cooling system is designed to circulate cooling water through the block and exhaust maniolds. I placed the short socket on the nut, then I slipped the ratchet into the socket part way. When I was re-connecting the small vacuum hoses, I found an open hose and I couldn't figure out what it connected to. That would cause the refrigerant to leak out, which would require professional service to refill.
I believe this is the first time the rotor has been replaced in 9 years and 160,000 miles. If you changed the gaskets a long time ago, they may be leaking. The bottom of the upper intake manifold, which is also called the plenum. There were several small puddles of antifreeze in here, which must have been spilled as I lifted the manifold off. I used a pry bar to loosen the intake manifold, by prying under the front of the manifold just above the timing chain housing. I removed the ignition coil.
Since the tube is metal, it's not very flexible, and I didn't want to kink it. The 3 bolts are all the same length, so I didn't need to keep track of which locations they came from. I was surprised at how dirty this was. In cold weather the thermostat may not open right away. Once the manifold was in place, I replaced the distributor. This bolt connects the bottom of the hang hook to the engine.
The raw water then exits the heat exchanger to go through the manifold, into the riser and then exit the boat. I used a bungee cord to lift that big wiring harness out of the way. There is also a possibility that there is a radiator failure, as most of these have an engine oil cooler in the left tank of the radiator and a transmission oil cooler in the right side of the radiator. Basically, the center 4 bolts should be tightened in the usual cross-pattern, and then the end bolts are tightened. Note that the bolt below this bracket is for the upper intake manifold. Then I removed the second throttle cable bracket. Next I removed this bolt arrow that held the fuel lines at the back of the engine.