The acoustical crossover frequency is 4 kHz. That's very kind of you to offer Serge - thanks! To detach the cables from the loudspeakers, the midwoofer must be removed and through its hole there is an access to the tweeter's connector. With luck, it will be relay based, and all that's happened is a stuck relay. S Thanks for the advice Serge - appreciated! The vocals are full-blooded without cheap adornment. When it acts, it puts a 390 ohm resistor is series with the tweeter, thus protecting it.
The resistor R2 was removed from the high-pass section for a slope improvement. The speakers look and sound beautiful. This could be relay based or electronic based, I'll see if I can find a circuit diagram. At the C1 slot put the best 3. Both midwoofer and tweeter no longer work in the area of high distortion nor unwanted resonances.
On right we can see the off-axis response, which is very good with a huge ultrasonic peak of the metal dome tweeter. Although the tweeter has third-order filter, its slope was lowered by adding the 1. It does say there is automatic overload protection - is that similar to the Mk1s? Electrically it's the same until there's a fault with one contact. We can see two empty component places for more complex midwoofer crossover, marked C3 and R3, which probably were abandoned in the development process or intended for other models. That's unfortunate, but an opportunity to learn! The ones I got are Mk2s, which don't have fuses on the back panel, and it's not clear from the manual whether they have equivalent fuses.
The measurements can be found here: Tweeter - Midwoofer - Both drivers show very good linearity. The soundstage is realistic plausible. Important: the tweeter is connected with inversed polarity. It results a peak in the 80-100Hz area, which is not too offensive and needs no special treatment. . Maybe when the kids are older and I have a bit more time etc They've gone to a Wammer for a proper investigation, so will hopefully be back in working order soon Excellent, they're well worth getting fixed. Listening Impressions The most important, of course, is how the improved crossover sounds like.
The crossover upgrade, described below, can be performed even without any driver disconnection. Crisp but sweet highs and tight bass. The tweeter unit has an excellent off axis frequency response. If you get an open circuit or a very low reading, say under 2 ohms, then it looks like a faulty tweeter. That's why I decided to take a look at the construction and, if it is possible to try to improve the overall sound.
If the relay is faulty, then I would just solder a link across the contacts if you can't get an exact replacement. The midrange itself is slightly muffled with a lack of consistence. Here is the schematics of the crossover. The impedance unevenness was improved too - the lowest impedance is 4. The integral stand positions the loudspeaker at the optimal listening height for accurate amplitude and phase-coherent information within a listening window. I would still check the tweeter for resistance and the relay for correct operation.
I could just about manage swapping a fuse, but that's about it. The lowest impedance point is about 3 Ohm at 14 kHz, which is mentioned in the manufacturer's brochure. Thee quality of this component is important. The burst decay looks good, and the impedance curve is excellent up to about 10khz. The conversation procedure is simple: - Replace the resistor R1 with 3.
Crossover Upgrade Here is the schematics of the upgraded crossover. All the above at the cost of four components and one hour of work. The descants are tempered and musical. His first impressions were very favorable. Our lengthy programme of design and development has been completed with excellence of performance rather than cost in mind.
My first step, of course, was to perform a detailed tests of both drivers. However after extensive listening sessions he noticed some recession in the midrange and bass with too much detailed upper end. I used Mundorf M-Resist 5W. New crossover improves this decay with 10dB. On the other hand, it might be a failed tweeter I'll get back to you once I've found a circuit. The midwoofer has too high electrical factor Qts for bass-reflex enclosure like this.