People may spend a lot of time upgrading the power side of the system and do nothing with the grounds. Somewhere in the interior light circuit. The main bus bar is too small to fit over the insulation of the wire. First, thanks to all who are providing additional feedback - this will help folks reading this thread to make educated choices for what they want to do. Keep in mind that both Weatherpak and Deutsch styles require special crimping tools, but the benefits far outweigh the cost of a one-time tool purchase.
That way when you run the heater, radio, lights, and the radio, the alt can keep the voltage correct in the cabin, which can vary from the voltage at the Batt terminal. No glow, bulb has burned out or there is a break in the wiring between the regulator plug and the dash. Too tight, the fiber insulators fracture and collapse, creating a loose connection, again heat damage and more resistance, or possible shorting to the cluster frame. Start by grounding the battery negative to the chassis. The red wire connects to the upstream side of the ignition switch, which is the same place where the 20 amp fuse, coming from the battery, connects.
Voltmeter reads a little less than 12V with ignition on, and about 10. If you screw up, you will have a fire. The concave portion of the crimping tool should apply force to the split side of the terminal and curl it around. Attach any of your ground wires to this one. Prior to this wiring was wrapped in electrical tape or some cloth type tape. The car is a 1969 510 wagon with a ka24de.
With the blue and other green connected and one multimeter lead on red power , the other on either the left other green or right yellow , I have continuity. Terminals should be crimped with the male portion of the anvil on the solid side of the terminal. The only damage that could occur is if the magnetic field would become strong enough to actually dislocate, bend or break the indicator needle, which is doubtful. Wires in the engine bay melt or become brittle. Damn, no wonder I don't ask any questions on here anymore. The only things ive been able to get goin so far is the hazard lights and tail lights.
If you see full or almost full12 volts, the regulator has failed. So let's discuss the pros and cons of that and feel free to add if I miss any : Pros: - 8 gauge wire is rated to handle up to ~85 amps There are some differing opinions on current ratings vs. The six wires would be left rear, right rear, left front, right front, flasher in, and brake lights in. Yellow lead is not used. Later I inspected the dash and column wiring and found melted insulation and damage on the Blue ignition wire in the dash harness. When charging the battery, turn off the main disconnect to protect your valuable ignition control from voltage surges. Now the physical size 0:00:43.
Instead, it goes from the alternator to the starter relay - the same stud where the fusible link is connected. If after replacing the warning lamp, the test fails again, the wiring between the warning lamp and the alternator is faulty. The Heavy Duty battery is rated at 4000 watts - 80 amps. If using a traditional plate-type battery, pay special attention to the way the battery is mounted in the battery box. Running the alternator charging wire directly to the battery will allow the disconnect to isolate the power from the rest of the car during an emergency. All vehicle electrical load should be on the alternator side of the ammeter.
If the alternator is working correctly and the voltage the regulator senses is too low the charging voltage will be too high. The original car wiring through connector P and an ability to power additional accessories through connector J. However, to be fair, that is an assumption of mine - I do not truly know to what specs the gauge was designed. Inspect what you have 1st before throwing money around or rewiring your car. Your hub for horsepower Get first access to hit shows like Roadkill and Dirt Every Day Join free for 14 days now You should also take the time to research some of the smaller battery companies. Adding an idiot light or diode in line to wire 1 is no big deal, and can be placed under the dash instead of in it.
No two wires have continuity to begin with. For example, if the battery ever goes dead and the car is jump started: In this case, the current load will be based on what the battery can draw as it is loading. Anyway here is what my brake light switch looks like, does this look right? Then you would be best to drill through the firewall and route a separate power wire directly into the car. Failure to do so will require you to quickly learn where the fusable link is located and how to replace it. The starter solenoid is powered through a 12 ga wire. A bad ground can cause all sorts of mysterious troubles. The yellow wire on the alternator diagram is not used in this application.