A rule of thumb that I use just my opinion is to count the number of cracks within 2 inches of the engine belt. They all have to be relocated. Torque the water pump bolts and the thermostat housing nuts to 14 ft. Now, once the belt is in place and ready for tension, put the pin out of the tensioner, and double check all the belt alignment marks. Response from TeamShiftPoint Use the 3.
Description for Toyota 3 0 V6 Engine Diagram. There are also about seven wires that you have to add to your body wire harness, about 20 that you need to extend several feet, and I think about 20 pins that have to be soldered on. We found it better to do the next step before this one. But, this time I did my homework, and it paid off. I am also leaning towards older engines because in many cases the factory included belt diagram that was glued to the fan shroud can become faded or disappear all together. The lower timing belt guide goes on the crankshaft with the concave cup side facing out.
Power Steering Hoses You'll need to use the 3. Then I grabbed both my vehicle wire diagrams and the engine wire diagrams and just started going back and forth on each diagram until I found a wire coming from the body that either supplied the charge I wanted or went to the component I wanted. Engine Problems And Solutions previously mentioned will be labelled together with: 1994 toyota 4runner vacuum diagram, 1994 toyota 4runner vacuum hose diagram,. I replaced it with a Dayco V-poly belt from Auto Zone and now she is running quiet. Also, your check engine lamp will work just fine. They make a special tool for replacing serpentine belts and checking tensioners Below. Install the alternator adjusting bracket.
The crankshaft pulley bolt is torqued to 162 ft. If the camshaft pulleys are not aligned, turn the crankshaft one more revolution. Expert Auto Repair Tip: Take it from someone who knows. Some Techs will use a breaker bar with a long handle. Once everything was cut to fit and hung, I welded on all the flanges, tacked all the butt connections and then sleeved them.
I inspected the drive belt pulleys and tensioner and all looked perfect. When the tensioner is loosened, the belt gets enough slack to give your hands space to remove it. Continue compressing it until the pin supplied with the tool goes through the hole in the tensioner. For the heater hoses I just bought some bulk heater hose to use. Because a mistake can be very costly, reading through the service manual process before taking it apart can save time and a lot of heartache. Make sure to double check that the belt is seated correctly before releasing the tensioner.
Remember to also inspect the idler and tensioner pulleys for any leakage or worn bearings as components are removed in the steps that follow. Then I went home and fired up the blowtorch and sawsall. The sticker on the underside of the hood is worn. The local parts store only had one brand to choose from for replacement serpentine belts. This is rare, but the possibility should not be overlooked. It's a bugger to get the sensors, cat, muffler all in a short span before the tailpipe. There is also a short bracket that goes to the base of the housing that holds the cooling system cap.
Remove the right-front wheel and fender liner panel see Photo 2. First I bought a bunch of 2. Turn the hex portion to spread the tool, which compresses the tensioner. Anyway, that's how I solved that problem. To my surprise it was missing. Inspect the seal for leakage. Then I had them take the remaining 2 sticks of pipe and put 1 - 90 bend in the middle of one stick and an 80 degree bend at one end.
The aftermarket tensioner compressor only works if the old belt is removed. But out of convenience and low funds I went to the local parts store for my oil change stuff and the new drive belt. Instead of separating the two pieces, remove the fan first, then just remove four bolts and take out the whole shroud. Regarding the clutch- You won't do anything with the slave, use it just the way it is setup already. Also props to 914Runner for asking questions to do his own swap, which instigated this discussion! In my opinion this is a must-have for Diy mechanics and professionals. We didn't perform either of these two steps. After the timing belt cover is removed, inspect below and behind the camshaft timing pulleys for any leakage from the seals.